The Shinkansen

The shinkansen, or the bullet trains, as they're more commonly known overseas, are Japan's famous high speed trains. Some shinkansen trains can go as fast as 320kph (200 mph) and are also known for their superb safety record (zero passenger death due to accidents since their inception in 1964) and punctuality (average delay of 36 seconds through the entire year of 2012, even after taking into account stoppages for natural disasters like typhoons and earthquakes.)

There are several main operational lines of shinkansen, and the trains have different names based on their speed of service and number of stops that they make. Generally, the faster services run faster train models as well as skip smaller stations. So say if you want to go to Atami on the Tokaido Shinkansen, you actually want to take the slower Kodama train instead of the Nozomi because the Nozomi would just blow right past Atami.

Tokaido Shinkansen

This is the original shinkansen route, connecting Tokyo to Shin-Osaka. Notable cities in between include Nagoya and Kyoto. There are three train configurations used for this route.

Nozomi - The fastest service on this route with max speed of 270kph (170mph). It has the least number of stops and connects Tokyo to Shin-Osaka in 2 hrs 25 mins. Typically uses the N700 series trains. This train is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass!

Hikari - Uses the same N700 series trains as the Nozomi, but has a few more stops.

Kodama - The slowest shinkansen service on the Tokaido route. Uses the older 700 series trains nowadays.

Tokaido Shinkansen 700 series "Hikari" circa 2010

 

 

Sanyo Shinkansen

This route is a continuation of the Tokaido Shinkansen, connecting Shin-Osaka to Hakata (Fukuoka) on the southern island of Kyushu. Notable cities in between include Kobe, Himeji, and Hiroshima. In addition to the Nozomi, Hikari, and Kodama trains that continue on from the Tokaido Shinkansen line, the Sanyo Shinkansen line also runs Mizuho and Sakura trains that continue on to the Kyushu Shinkansen line. The max velocity seen on this line is 300 kph (185 mph) for the Mizuho super express. Of note, the Mizuho is excluded from The Japan Rail Pass.

Kyushu Shinkansen

This route is a continuation of the Sanyo Shinkansen, connecting Hakata to Kagoshima. In addition to the eastern Kagoshima route, a western expansion is currently underway to connect Hakata to Nagasaki. The trains running on this route are as follows:

Mizuho - The fastest service with max speed of 300 kph (185 mph) and the least number of stops. Actually starts out in Osaka on the Sanyo Shinkansen and continues onto the Kyushu Shinkansen route. Uses the N700-8000 series trains and connects Shin-Osaka to Kagoshima in 3 hrs 45 mins. This train is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass!

Sakura - Uses the same N700-8000 series trains as the Mizuho, but has more stops.

Tsubame - The slowest shinkansen service on the Kyushu route, connects Hakata to Kagoshima using the 800 series trains and stops at all stations.

Sanyo/Kyushu Shinkansen N700-8000 series "Sakura", 2013

Tohoku Shinkansen

The longest shinkansen route in Japan, starts in Tokyo and heads north towards Aomori. Notable cities in between includes Fukushima and Sendai.  This route actually has the fastest train velocity currently in Japan.

Hayabusa - Using the E6 series trains, can hit max speed of 320 kph (200 mph) and connects Tokyo to Aomori in 2 hrs 59 mins. Surprisingly, this train is actually covered by the Japan Rail Pass. The Hayabusa is also unique in that in addition to standard cars and Green cars, they also have a limited number (18) of GranClass seats, which for an additional 10,000 yen will get you meal service and even better seats.

Hayate - Uses the same E6 series trains as the Hayabusa service, but with slightly more stops.

Yamabiko - Hybrid limited stop service from Tokyo to Sendai with all local stops from Sendai to Aomori. Uses the older E2 series trains.

 Nasuno - Makes all stops between Tokyo to Morioka using the E2 series trains. Doesn't go all the way to Aomori.

Tohoku Shinkansen E2 series "Nasuno"

Joetsu Shinkansen

This is a route between Tokyo and Niigata that shares the Tohoku Shinkansen track between Tokyo to Omiya, then branches off from Omiya to Niigata.

Toki/Max Toki - E2 or E4 series trains with max speed of 245 kph (150 mph). The regular Toki uses the E2 series while the Max Toki designation are for double decker E4 series trains.

Tanigawa/Max Tanigawa - The local version of Toki that stops at all stations. The trains are the same E2/E4 series.

Nagano Shinkansen

This is a route between Tokyo and Nagano that shares the Tohoko Shinkansen track between Tokyo to Omiya, the Joetsu Shinkansen track between Omiya and Takasaki, and then its own tracks all the way to Nagano. This line uses E2 and the new E7 series trains, both named "Asama," with max speed of 260 kph (160 mph).

Hokuriku Shinkansen

This route is an extension of the Nagano Shinkansen and connects Nagano to Kanazawa using the new E7 and W7 series trains. The service is divided into three patterns.

Kagayaki - Express service with the least number of stops, max speed 260 kph (160 mph).

Hakutaka - Limited stop service with more stops than the Kagayaki.

Tsurugi - Shuttle service, stopping at all stations.


Akita Shinkansen

This is a hybrid route that uses the new E6 series trains nicknamed "Komachi" on Tohoku Shinkansen tracks from Tokyo to Morioka with max speed of 320 kph (200 mph) but then switches to local lines with max speed of 130 kph (80 mph) for the remainder of the journey to Akita.

Yamagata Shinkansen
 

This is a hybrid route that uses the E3 series trains called "Tsubasa" on Tohoku Shinkansen tracks from Tokyo to Fukushiuma with max speed of 240 kph (150 mph) but then switches to local lines with max speed of 130 kph (80 mph) for the remainder of the journey to Shinjo in Yamagata Prefecture.

Hokkaido Shinkansen

A planned route that extends the Tohoku shinkansen route from Aomori, north into the northern island of Hokkaido. JR plans to eventually connect this line all the way to Sapporo.

Chuo Shinkansen

A new line currently being constructed between Tokyo and Osaka, this line takes a more direct route between the two cities, as opposed to the Tokaido Shinkansen which hugs the coastline. This line is planned to run Mag-Lev trains with max speed over 500 kph (310 mph.) The Tokyo-Nagoya section is scheduled to open in 2027 with the extension to Osaka completed by 2045. Maybe I'll get to see this in my lifetime...

The Japan Rail Pass

The Japan Rail Pass is an all-you-can-ride train pass good for use on most (but not all) Japan Railways operated trains. As you might imagine, trains operated by companies other than JR (including the Tokyo Metro Subway) are not covered.

The Japan Rail Pass covers all bullet trains except for the
Nozomi and the Mizuho super express.

The pass comes in increments of 7 days, 14 days, and 21 days. The most basic 7 day pass currently (as of October 2014) goes for 29,110 yen or slightly less than $300 USD. This might seem steep, but consider that a single 1-way shinkansen (bullet train) fare can go for an upward of 20,000 yen, it's actually a killer deal. I've actually calculated that if you take a single round trip bullet train ride from Tokyo to Kyoto or beyond, you've already covered the cost of this pass! However, if you're primarily staying in the same area and only taking local trains, you might not get your money's worth. The last time I used the Japan Rail Pass, I was in Japan for 2 weeks. So for 1 week, I spent time in and around Tokyo, paying for the train with my Suica. Then for the 2nd week, I used the Japan Rail Pass to hit Osaka, Hakata, Hiroshima, Ito, and Yokohama. The time before that, we did the same thing where we condensed our trip to Kyoto, Nara, and Atami all into 1 week to cover it all with the rail pass.

Many Japanese long distance trains have regular cars and the first class cars, or the "Green Cars." Accordingly, for an extra 10,000 yen, you can upgrade your 1 week Japan Rail Pass to cover access to the Green Cars. Unlike airline first class or European train first class however, you don't get any special service, drinks, or food for being in the Green Car. The seats are just a little bit bigger. However, Japanese bullet trains are pretty spacious and comfortable as is, so I've personally never felt the need to splurge for the Green Car.

There's plenty of legroom for an average sized individual, even in standard seats.

The Japan Rail Pass is actually only available to people who live outside Japan. To pick one up, you have to show that you have a non-Japanese passport. Japanese citizens can only buy this pass if they have proof of permanent residency in a foreign country, such as a U.S. Green Card. (that's how I manage to purchase the Japan Rail Pass despite being a Japanese citizen)

While you would think that the Japan Rail Pass would be an awesome proxy chip enabled card like the Suica, it's actually just a fancy piece of folded paper. For local trains, instead of going through the regular turnstiles, you want to go to the special turnstile with a station staff. Just show them your pass and they'll wave you through.

For bullet trains and other express trains, you'll need to go to the ticket office (midori no madoguchi) to obtain your ticket and seat assignment using your Japan Rail Pass.

In addition to trains, the Japan Rail Pass is also valid on JR Buses (keep in mind though that most buses in Tokyo are NOT run by JR), and the JR Miyajima Ferry in Hiroshima.

A notable exception to the Japan Rail Pass is the Nozomi super express and the Mizuho super express bullet trains. Take a look at my shinkansen explanation page for further details.

Also, if you want to use the Japan Rail Pass to get to and from Narita Airport, you'll have to be sure to use the JR Narita Express train instead of the Keisei Skyliner/SkyAccess train.

Taking the trains in Japan

Japan has one of the best rail system in the world. They're clean, comfortable, and super punctual... albeit a bit pricy. Although buses, taxis, and rental cars are also available, trains are by far the easiest way to get around Japan.

All train fares are based on distance traveled, and can range from 180 yen all the way to 20,000+ yen per person one way if you take a bullet train across the country. If you're planning some long-distance journeys, you should definitely look into obtaining a Japan Rail Pass.

Also, the fare can be divided up into multiple sections. For example, your fare for a bullet train might actually be your base fare (what you would pay on a regular train) plus express fare (for taking a faster train.)

Back in the days, you had to look at a huge map of destinations and figure out what your trip will cost you, then buy a corresponding fare from the ticket machine. Although you can still do that, the easier option is for you to obtain a proxy chip embedded reloadable charge card. In the Tokyo area, Suica and Pasmo are the more common options. These can be obtained from the same ticket machines and costs 2000 yen. Of that, 500 yen is a refundable deposit and the other 1500 yen comes preloaded on your card for your immediate use. So basically, it's free.

The future has been around in Japan since 2001.

Once you have your Suica/Pasmo, you can just wave it at the gate leading into a train station and voila! You don't even have to pull it out of your wallet. And if at the end of your trip, you don't have enough money on your card to pay for your fare, there's always a ticket vending machine nearby for you to add more money to your pass card.

Also, you can use your Suica to pay for a cold beverage out of a vending machine or even at some stores like Seven Elevens!

Now of course, if you don't mind waiting in lines, there's usually also a manned ticket office to go to for help.

The other thing that I should mention is that not all trains in Japan are run by the same company. By far the biggest of these companies is JR (Japan Railways). They run most of the trains around Tokyo as well as all the bullet trains. However, there are other companies as well such as Keisei, Odakyu, and Tobu. The Tokyo Subway system is also a different company, I believe. Fortunately, your Suica will work for all of these companies around Tokyo. From what I understand, however, that is not the case around Osaka. So beware what company's line your itinerary wants you to take!

Lodging in Japan

Lodging

Japan is infamous for their capsule hotels (literally, just a bunk bed built into the wall of a train station that you rent to sleep in.) But as these cost ~3000 yen per night while some of the cheapest hotels are ~5000 yen per night, the capsule hotels actually aren't that cost effective. These are more meant for people to use as a last ditch option if they miss the final train of the night. The train services in Tokyo actually stop surprisingly early... most trains stop running around midnight! With that said, you might consider these options for lodging on your trip to Japan:

Ok, capsule hotels might be novel. But really, do they look comfortable?

Standard hotels: What you might expect to see in other large metropolitan areas of the world. The prices can vary wildy, from 5000 yen per night all the way up to 50,000 yen per night. The one thing to be aware of with hotel pricing in Japan is that they charge PER PERSON. That hotel room that looks like it's 5000 yen per night might actually be 10,000 yen per night if you're sharing it with someone else.

The Shinagawa Prince Hotel is my family's go-to when visiting Tokyo

Business hotels: These are no-frills hotels that basically just has enough room for a bed, for your luggage, and a bathroom. These are meant to be used by business travelers, so although they're not luxurious by any means, they tend to be conveniently situated near train stations. Some of them have free breakfast included with your stay. Expect to pay 5000~10,000 yen per night for these hotels.

A small, no-frills room is typical of a business hotel.
This room is at a Toyoko Inn, a big business hotel chain in Japan.

Weekly apartments: Especially in larger cities like Tokyo, you can find apartments for rent by the week. If you're planning on staying in 1 city for your entire stay, these might be an attractive alternative as these can be found for as little as 43,000 yen per week. Some of these have shared common areas, however, so they may be more similar to hostels.

Ryokan: A ryokan is a popular Japanese bed & breakfast type inn that usually also has a hot springs bath as well. The price of lodging at a ryokan includes either a buffet or multi-course dinner and breakfast. The food at these places tend to be rather extravagant and delicious. (All you can eat sushi, anyone?) But accordingly, they are super expensive. You should expect to pay at least 10,000 yen per person to stay at even the cheapest ryokan. A popular ryokan in a popular destination like Hakone might cost you more than 40,000 yen per person per night!

Hotel Shikisai - a ryokan in Nikko

The dinner at Hotel Nanmei - a ryokan in Atami

Love hotels: If you see these around, chances are, you've entered a seedy part of town. As the name implies, these hotels have themed rooms with a specific purpose in mind. These hotels post prices for both "resting" (renting a room for a few hours) or "staying the night", so they should be pretty easy to pick out. I'd avoid them, but I guess it might be an interesting cultural experience for others. 

Love hotels... they're pretty obvious.
You can't possibly go into a building like that and feign ignorance!

General Tips for Visiting Japan

I was born in Japan and still go over for a visit almost every year. So I might know a thing or two about visiting the land of the rising sun. Take a look below for some useful travel tips!

When is a good time to go?

This depends on a lot of different factors. Which part of the country are you visiting? Do you care about seeing any festivals in particular? What's your heat tolerance?

-In terms of weather, April~June and September~November are probably the most comfortable. Not too hot, not too cold.

-Japan actually has a monsoon season that typically lasts from June~July in the Tokyo area. Be prepared for daily rain showers!

-Japan is an island nation, so it's very humid. Combining that with 90+ degree heat and the lack of central air conditioning in many older buildings makes Japan in the summertime (July~August) pretty miserable. It also doesn't help that they've turned down the air conditioning nationwide in an effort to cut down on power usage in the aftermath of the Fukushima nuclear disaster and the subsequent shuttering of all the nucelar power plants nationwide.

-If you want to see cherry blossoms in bloom, you should take a peek at websites that feature cherry blossom forecasts before booking your dates. In general, the flowers bloom late March ~ early April in the Tokyo area. Even if the cherry blossoms aren't blooming in Tokyo, you might be able to go south to catch them if you get there too early, or go north if you get there too late as different parts of the country bloom at different times due to the temperature difference.

-There are other varieties of cherry trees that bloom in early May (see above) as well, so that might be a good alternative. It's much warmer and nicer in May compared to March!

-Traditional Japanese vacation weeks are during Golden Week (usually the first week of May) and Obon Festival (mid August in Tokyo, mid July in Osaka/Kyoto). Try to avoid these weeks as lodging prices may be significantly higher.

When are airfares the cheapest?

In my experience, Jan~Feb, May, and Oct~Nov seem to have the most consistently affordable airfares. On the flipside, typical school vacation months (June, July, Aug, Dec) have horrendous prices, oftentimes double the cheapest rates.

What's the best airline to take?

Let's face it, we're all most likely going to end up choosing based on price. But with that said, if prices were all the same, All Nippon Airways (ANA) and Japan Airlines (JAL) offer superior services to domestic airlines. The flight attendants are mind blowingly polite, the in flight meals are better, and their aircraft fleets tend to be newer. If you're using frequent flyer miles to book your ticket, United Airlines miles can be used for ANA flights and American Airlines miles can be used for JAL flights, so that's a consideration. Among the domestic carriers, Delta has the best on-time performance and have the widest array of free alcohol in international economy class for those that care. On the other hand, United is the only domestic carrier at this time that flies the new Boeing 787 jets to Japan, once again, if that sort of thing matters to you.  

Cash or credit card?

Most people in Japan still prefer to use cash. Although most major hotels and restaurants accept credit cards these days, it's still a good idea to have cash on hand since there are still places that don't accept credit card.


What's a good conversion rate?

While it's easiest to simplify things by assuming 1 US dollar = 100 Japanese yen, the conversion rates have historically fluctuated between 80 yen ~ 120 yen per dollar. At the time of this writing (September 2014), the rate is relatively favorable for Americans at 109 yen per dollar. In my experience, the Mizuho Bank currency exchange offers super competitive exchange rates compared to our local American banks or God forbid, the rip-off that is Travelex exchange at American airports. And beware: Japanese bills are taller than American bills, so they don't fit American wallets very well! A money clip might be an easy solution to this.